How to tile the top of a table

how to tile the top of a table

How to Tile a Table Top With Your Own Ceramic Tiles

May 23,  · Steps 1. Plan your work. A drawing of your design is very helpful. It allows you to create a pattern you like and determine 2. Place your table over the drop cloth. Remove the old finish or at least rough it up with sandpaper. Take your coarse 3. With a damp cloth, wipe off all the sawdust. Jul 11,  · E Glue. White Spray Primer (I use this one to help with “bleed-thru”) Sandpaper. Grout. High Performance Top Coat. White Paint. I actually calculated out the size of the table top and size of the tiles and knew I’d not have to cut a thing. That is when your tile job gets even simpler. They fit absolutely perfectly.

Practice your tiling skills while making a fabulous, functional table! After you master this, you'll be able to tackle any tiling task. Before you tackle a full-scale floor, ohw, or countertop, you may want to take on a project that gives you a chance to tablle each step.

Tiling the top of a small table provides this opportunity. It's a surface on which you can carry out tile installation techniques on a small scale: prepping the surface, dry-laying tile, snapping layout and reference lines, applying mortar, and setting and grouting the tile.

If the dimensions of the table won't accommodate a setting of how to open pdf file tiles, you can practice cutting edge tiles, too. Tile can add new life to an old table. If the top is a little warped, you can set small tile, which doesn't crack as tab,e as large tile.

If the table is severely warped, sand it with a belt sander first. The tabletop installation shown here uses thinset for the adhesive, but if the table is primarily decorative and won't receive heavy use, use t mastic as the adhesive. Lay one course of tiles without thinset on the table across its width and another course across its length.

Adjust the courses to leave at least a half tile at the edges, if possible. Mark the ends of the table at the edges of each row. Remove the dry-laid tile; snap reference lines at the marks on the table. Test the intersection of the lines with the triangle method or a framing square. Adjust the lines if necessary to make them perpendicular to each other. Snap additional layout grids if necessary. Mix enough thinset to cover the table or a section of it. Spread thinset to an even thickness with the straight edge of a trowel, keeping it within the layout lines.

Then use the notched edge to comb the mortar to create ridges. Starting at the intersection of a layout grid, lay the field tiles in the pattern of your choice, keeping them on the layout lines and spacing them as you go.

Remove excess mortar from joints and let the mortar set up. Measure and cut any edge tiles, rounding the cut edge with a masonry stone.

When the mortar is dry, set the edge tiles with the factory edge to the outside of the table. Let the mortar cure and force grout into the joints with a grout float. Let the grout set up and scrape the excess off with the float. Clean the tiles at least twice and remove the haze with a soft rag. How to Tile a Tabletop. January 26, Save Pin Ho ellipsis More. Furniture Projects. Comments Add Comment. Share options. Back to story Comment on this project Rate Review Comment on this story.

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Step 1: Collecting Supplies and Tools

A table or similar flat surface that you want to tile. If you notice the part I am going to tile is plain old 3/4" unsanded plywood. If you are going to tile something that isn't custom built for a tile project, use some grit sandpaper to rough it up because a rough surface will generally grip better than a smooth one. Jun 04,  · Tiling: Dry fit the tile to the table top to test the layout. If your table top is larger than your tile sheets, you’ll need to cut tiles off the mesh of a second sheet to fit it on the table. If you have a staggered tile pattern, you will need to cut partial pieces. Practice cutting the leftover pieces of tile first. Apr 17,  · Use the flat sides of a square notch trowel to spread a thin layer of adhesive onto the plywood, covering half of the table with it. Then drag the notched side of the trowel along the adhesive to create grooves. Press the tiles into the adhesive, placing spacers in between each tile.

I tiled my patio in , and I absolutely hated the entire experience. I will probably never do a project like that again. In the end it came out pretty good, but bent over in the Georgia sun mixing mortar and cutting tile wasn't very fun. So earlier this year I decided that I should not have a tool go unused, so I decided to make a tile top coffee table.

I figured that it would be an easy project, a small project, and would look great. Spoiler alert, didn't use the tile saw for this project. Now, here is a bit of information: 1. I built the table depicted in this instructable, but you DON'T have to make your own! You can do this with any old coffee table that needs a new life. You don't even need to do a coffee table, you can be as ambitious as you want. Do your dining table if you want. You don't have to use coasters on tile, which is why I did this on the coffee table.

Here is a list of supplies you will need, but remember, this is just what I used, there are several substitutes for some of these materials. That may come in later instructables, but I am way more likely to say things like: "Sub-creatures! Choose and perish! If you got that reference, give yourself a pat on the back, you deserve it.

And now, back to this A table or similar flat surface that you want to tile. If you are going to tile something that isn't custom built for a tile project, use some grit sandpaper to rough it up because a rough surface will generally grip better than a smooth one. Construction adhesive. It says so, right on the tube.

That point is very important, most general or heavy duty construction adhesives contain oils that will eventually seep through surfaces and make the surface look weird. I read on some online forums that this stuff will not stain through. I got it at Lowe's.

Actually, all of this stuff came from Lowe's. Grout sealer, so the grout areas are easy to clean later in life. It will also help to keep the grout from flaking out and getting dust everywhere. I got some pre-mixed grout because I hate mixing the stuff, it is a really fine dust that goes everywhere and makes a mess. The Pre-mixed is available in many colors and is easy to work with even if it is a bit more expensive.

Scrub pad. This is to clean off excess grout after it starts to set. Caulk gun to use the adhesive tube. If you plan to do a big project you may want to invest in an electric or air powered caulk gun because, as I type this, my hands are killing me and my project was pretty small 7. You can use whatever fits your taste, just remember that if you get several different types, the thickness may be different and the sides may be a bit longer or shorter than other styles.

You will see what I mean when you get to the end of this. Tongue depressor, popsicle stick, finger, or rounded wooden stick to work the grout into the gaps and form neat lines. Rags that you don't mind throwing away. Bucket, for warm water. Optional: Razor blade or thin knife to cut the glue. If you use tiles intended for back splashes, they are glued onto a plastic mesh so that you don't have to place each one individually.

They are usually in sheets measuring 12x12". Plastic bags. You can use a ziploc freezer bag or something similar, it just needs to be strong and have a sharp corner. This will be used to place the grout. I used a big canvas bag made for this purpose when I did my patio, but it would be a bit too big for this project.

Now that you have gathered your supplies, lay the tiles out on your surface to make sure they look good. If you have a spouse or significant other that you reside with, make sure to get approval on this step or you can enjoy that tiled table in the garage. Now that you have the tile laid out, make it nice and even. This is what it will look like when it is finished.

I didn't use rubber tile spacers because all the tiles are different and the spacing is off a bit. The adhesive is roughly the same color and consistency of peanut butter, but makes a less delicious sandwich. If you use a regular caulk gun, you may even develop Kung-Fu grip. All you have to do now is remove each tile individually and cover the back with adhesive. Use a liberal amount, and make sure it will stick down both on the corners and the center.

In the case of those little tiles, make sure to put adhesive on all of them so you don't have any loose tiles. See the picture to see a good way to apply adhesive. Press the tile into place. You will have plenty of play before the adhesive dries so wiggle it into the right position and press it down hard.

Again, if you use those little tiles, put pressure on each one when pressing it down. Adhere in a pattern see picture and be sure not to touch any other tiles or it will mess up your pattern. If you get adhesive on the top of the tiles, just wipe it off with a damp rag or paper towel while holding the tile in place.

Let it sit overnight, and by tomorrow, you will need a crowbar to take off the tiles. And you will probably break the tile before the adhesive, this stuff is strong! Now that your tiles are set with an unbreakable bond, you can grout it. This is fairly messy, so be ready. Go ahead and take off your rings and watches so you don't mess them up. Fill your bucket with warm water from the tap and toss a few rags in the water, set that aside if your project is really big, do this after step 5 so your water doesn't get cold 3.

Open your grout bucket and turn one of your ziploc bags inside out. Scoop up some grout with your inside-out bag with your hand inside, pull it through and zipper the top closed. If you have ever owned a dog, you will probably be an expert at this. Cut or tear a little bit of corner off of the bag, now you can use it like a cake frosting squeeze bag and put a bead of grout along the gaps. Do all the gaps like this. Now you have grout all over your table, but it definitely isn't done.

Use a Popsicle stick, tongue depressor, spoon, or your finger and smooth the grout into the top. If this is too slow for you, you can just plop the grout onto the table and slather it around with a rag or sponge.

While this is faster, it is also messier. You can throw any grout clumps you clean off back into the grout bucket, it keeps for a long time as long as the lid seal is good. Squeeze lots of squeezing in this step, huh? Get as much of it as you can without messing up your grout lines.

If you do mess them up, smooth it back out with your finger. If you get grout on you wood surfaces, go over it with a CLEAN wet rag, the wipe the water off with a dry rag. You don't have to get it all, just get as much as you can. Let it sit for about 2 hours or so and then clean it up a little more as described in 8.

You can scrub the built up areas with your damp rag. Let it sit for 24 hours. Now that your grout has hardened overnight, dampen your scrub pad and clean each tile. Your grout will not be completely set but not runny, be careful around your lines. Wipe off water residue with a paper towel or a film may form on the tiles. Grout film is pretty hard to clean off after it is dry, so take care of it now.

Since things tend to shrink as they dry, your grout may have formed cracks along the lines or little pits where air has escaped. If any of the grout lines are messy or lumpy, you can reapply a little more grout to it. Clean it as described before. If you have really small flaws, you can put a little water on there and smooth it out with your finger. Repeat until you you have no build up, film, residue, or anything undesirable looking on your table. Let it sit until completely dried which may take a few days.

You can test it by pressing your fingernail on the grout and it should not dent; it will feel like concrete. Use the grout sealer, just follow the instructions on the bottle. What you are left with should be a very attractive tile-top table so enjoy some coaster-less coffee!

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