How to prevent sump pump airlock

how to prevent sump pump airlock

Sump Pump Weep Hole Guide

Sep 08,  · Airlock Prevention. If you can hear your pump running, but it's not pumping water, it is likely air-locked. Check out this video to learn the easy solution that is often missed in installation! Sump pumps need Weep Holes (relief holes) in order to prevent air locking the impeller chamber. This is important because it allows air to bleed out of the interior of the pump that would normally keep the next cycles from starting.

Asked by Wiki User. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the checkvalve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the checkvalve to allow discharge.

The weight of the fluid on the topside of the checkvalve keeps it closed. The problem is often noticed after the initial use, when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell.

When it gets water in the pit again, the air lock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the air lock condition.

Quick fix!!! The water will push the excess air from the discharge line allowing the pump to start the water removal. You will get a steady stream of water from the drilled hole as a result, but the air lock problem should be a thing of the past.

This info should be in owners manual that came with the pump. Air pump seized internally. You would need a sump pump repair if the sump pump in your basement is not pumping out water. The purpose of a sump pump is to drain excess water that is part of your waterproofing system.

Centrifugal pump impeller discharges through outlet to manifold in top of unit where water is distibuted through media and what does not evaporate returns to sump.

Water level in sump needs to be higher than pump base, as this is the inlet to pump. Is this for a residential or commercial property? Your sump pump should have come with an installation guide or CD.

If not, contact the manufacturer. Every sump pump is installed differently so you want to make sure you know how to install the sump pump you purchased. The hole in the pipe is to break an air lock that the pump may develop if the sump ever runs dry or the water level drops below the intake of the pump.

Air inside the pump might not be purged out when the water level rises and the pump is called to turn on, causing the pump impeller to 'run dry' inside the pump. The hole allows the air to escape and how to study music notes pump to prime itself and operate without an air lock condition. The pipe coming off of sump pump that goes outside or if allowable, a drain line.

Yes it will power how to plant a rose of sharon bush small sump pump. A pump that locks. The oil pump is the the sump. A sump pump discharge line should run as far from the foundation walls as possible. That pump operates the pneumatic central door locking system. Check local electric codes to see if a disconnect is required at the sump pump. One way is to wire a single 15A circuit to an outlet for sump pump.

Then the disconnect is just to unplug the pump for service. When you have a crawl space under your home, you have the possibility of having flooding or water build up.

If the level of water is allowed to build up too much you can find that your home can sustain costly damage and repair issues.

Installing a sump pump in your crawl space can save you from this headache. Here is a guide to help you set up a sump pump for protection. Step 1. Turn off power to the sump pump at the main power source. This will help prevent electrical shock. Step 2. A solid foundation needs to be constructed for the sump pump to rest on. This foundation is best constructed of cinder bocks or a solid piece of wood that is a little larger than the size of the pump. The foundation also needs to be level for the best results.

Step 3. Drill a small hole in the discharge pipe. This will help the air flow easier through the pipe for better pressure. Install the discharge pipe from the sump pump to the area where you want to drain the excess water to.

Step 4. If water begins to flow back into the sump pump, you will need to install how to draw santa claus face for kids check flow valve or similar device. Step 5. You will need to attach the power cord for the sump pump to the discharge pipe. This cord must be secure. Step 6. Plug the power cord for the sump pump into the electricity source that you plan on using.

Turn the power back on at the main power how to wrote a cv for the sump pump to operate. Step 7. It is necessary to test the sump pump for positive operation results prior to using it.

To test your sump pump fill the sump pump with water. Never test or operate your sump pump without water being present. Step 8. Add water or refill the pump until there is enough water to reach the level where the sump pump will turn on. Step 9. If you want to install a cover for your sump pump, you can do this now. These covers will help to eliminate dirt and debris from building up in your sump pump and will help to provide odor control from stagnant water.

Most residential plumbers can provide any needed repairs for sump pumps. There are national chains, such as roto-rooter that are able to service your sump pump needs as well. A sump pump is submerged in a pit. It keeps house from flooding.

A utiliity how to prevent sump pump airlock is used to pump water out of already flooded house, boat, pool, tank, etc It keeps the water that is pumped out from flowing back into the sump when the pump shuts off.

Most sumps discharge several feet above the hole the pump sits in. If there was not a check valve the sump would just refill and pump out the water over and over. Power failures are the most likely cause of sump pump failure, but other reasons, such as a faulty switch, incorrect installation or even the unlikely event of a product failure, can trigger sump pump back-up. With routine maintenance on your sump pump, many failures can be avoided.

By filling the sump with clean water until the float kicks in and then the pump will start when the correct water level is reached.

That sounds like you have a good sump pump and it's really trying hard to get rid of excess water. Ask Question. See Answer. Top Answer. Wiki User Answered Related Questions. What are possible causes of the pulley on the air pump locking up?

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Related Questions

pump and the checkvalve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the checkvalve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside. Apr 05,  · We've had a lot of snow and precip this winter & spring and my sump well is getting a lot of action. Here's the problem: the submersible sump pump intermittently air locks (I believe) and the sump well fills up with water. The pump still clicks on and keeps humming but no water is pumped out. To get the air out, when the pump is running I loosen off one of the clamps and air comes rushing out. When it starts to spit out water I unplug the pump and tighten the clamp. When I unplug the pump you can hear water falling back down into the pit. I then plug the pump back in and it usually works.

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Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups. We do not sell your information. We are made possible by:. The sump pump that came with my new home failed after 10 years. I thought it would be an easy thing to replace - apparently not.

I have bought two new pumps because I thought the first one I bought was faulty but I have the same problem with the second. The original sump pump did not have a check valve and never got air locked. It ran problem-free. The new pump gets air locked all the time. I have tried installing a check valve in the pit above the pump and when that didn't work I tried installing a valve where the pump rises up the basement wall to exit the house.

I have also tried drilling a hole in the pipe in the pit. Nothing works. I am thinking that the design of the discharge pipe contributes to the problem because it seems to me that it has a built in air trap.

The pipe comes out of the pit, rises about 6 inches above the basement floor, and then runs horizontal for about a foot. The pipe then runs back down through the basement floor and runs under the concrete slab all the way to the other side of the basement where it rises out of the floor, runs up the wall and out of the house.

Water probably gets trapped in the pipe under the slab and there is air trapped in that horizontal one foot long part above the sump pit. Any ideas as to what the problem is and what I need to do? Edited 1 times. Thanks for the responses. I don't think the discharge line is blocked as it works fine once I get the air out of the system until the next time. I don't currently have a check valve as the old sump pump worked fine without one.

I did try putting one in though and I did drill a hole below as you suggest. It didn't help - so I took the check valve and hole out. The pit used to be sealed but I damaged the cover when I replaced the original pump had to cut it off so it is no longer sealed. Would it make a difference in the operation of the pump if the pit were sealed? It sounds to me that something is in your discharge line. Your other pump did not have a check valve because the way you explained the pipe sounds like it makes a trap.

I would snake the line out regardless you may think it is fine. I would still leave the hole in the pipe whether you have the check valve or not. An "air trap" ONLY occurs inside the pump, and a properly drilled hole in the riser pipe eliminates that. You have a completely different problem, but it is NOT an air lock, from what you have described and what you say you have done already.

To remove the original pump after it failed, I had to cut the discharge line and I did that at that one foot horizontal area above the pit. When I installed the new pump I used one of those rubber connectors with the two hose clamps.

To get the air out, when the pump is running I loosen off one of the clamps and air comes rushing out. When it starts to spit out water I unplug the pump and tighten the clamp.

When I unplug the pump you can hear water falling back down into the pit. I then plug the pump back in and it usually works. Sometimes though I need to do this a couple of times. It is like there is water in the pipe under the slab and air in the pipe in the horizontal part above the slab - and in order to actually pump out water that air as to be removed. Is there a reason you have to keep the same pipe set up? Can you go straight above the pit then out?

I would like to keep the same setup if possible as my basement is finished as living space and it would require extensive renovation to change the location of the discharge pipe.

Could the current system have a huge amount of head pressure with the water sitting in the pipe under the slab? Did the old pump have some design that had a check valve right at the pump so that little or no air ever entered the pump? Is your new pump maybe too wimpy or of a different design to overcome the hypothetical head pressure?

Just some guesses on an intriguing problem. Edited 2 times. The pump creates "pressure" which will push any air out of the line. It is more likely that you are venting the air from the pump so it CAN create the pressure. How does this air get in the pump?

How would I prevent this? If you drilled a hole just above the water level at activation it should have worked as said. It needs only be above the water line when the pump starts.

ONe way is if the pump does not turn off when all the water is out of the pit. In fact, it is about the only way it can happen. The hole has been drilled. I will monitor the situation and report back. Thanks for all your help. IF it works, then find out WHY it was getting air into the pump, because that only happens when there is a malfunction of the float.

So far I am still having the problem. The only difference now is that water shoots out of the hole at great pressure but still doesn't go up and out the discharge pipe until I unplug the power cord a couple of times. When I do that there is some gurgling in the pipe and when I plug the cord back in - it will discharge. YOu have a problem which may be impossible to diagnose without being there. IF water is coming out of the hole then the pump is creating pressure, and as long as there is pressure, ANYTHING in the pipe should be pushed out, and if cannot be pushed out, the water should not flow no matter how many times you plug the pump in.

Are yous sure it would not empty the pit in time or have you set the amount of time by the running time? The top third of the lift station may take longer with some activation set up,s? Is the inlet covered with water before the pump starts? When the pump stops after pumping water out of the pit there is still about 6 inches of water left in the pit - so the inlet is covered. I am trying something else here. I have shortened the discharge hose in the yard to just a few feet so it completely drains after the sump pump is finished.

There will still be water left in the pipe that runs under the basement slab but perhaps water standing in the hose outside adds to the problem.

I have installed many pits that have a thousand or more gallons of water in the lines before the pump starts. It means the pump is pumping. I am missing other wise. When the pump starts the water flows out of the relief hole with lots of pressure.

When the pump stops, there is not a lot of water that comes out of the relief hole. Probably just from the couple of feet of pipe before the pipe goes horizontal.

I was thinking that perhaps all of the water in rest of the pipe and the hose outside the house was acting like a vacuum - preventing more water from falling back down. That was the reason I shortened the hose outside. That seems to all Home Depot ever sells right now they have absolutely none in stock. You do not want the whole pipe to drain back into the pit or the pump will just cycle that water.

If the pipe just there at the pump drains back, that is fine. Depending on where your float is set, that will depict where the water level will be when the pump shuts off. And then add the foot or so of water that drains back.

To me it sounds as if there is a blockage still somewhere in the pipe. You are "grasping at straws" and have no idea what the problem is, and thus no way to determine how to fix it. Your description of the symptoms, as Spock would say, is "illogical", and therefore we can't help either.

That also has absolutely nothing to do with your problem. One possibility, and I would have to be there to see the actual installation, would be if the piping is arranged so it can "siphon" the water out of the pit once the pump starts. That could be the reason that very little water drains back when the pump stops. You might try an automatic air vent on the horizontal line, the kind used on chilled and heating water systems.

You can valve it on the bottom and run the discharge line back to the sump pit. Most commercial supply houses have them. New information. Tonight I had to turn the pump off and on a couple of times to try and get it working.

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