How to Make Brick or Concrete Patio Steps for your Garden Ц The Guide to Building Steps with Pavers
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When you have a patio you will often need to make steps to get on to, or off it. In this project we show you how to make concrete or brick garden steps that can be built from or to a patio, or between retaining garden walls.
Steps made of brick, paving stones or with pavers can look fantastic in your garden so it is worth taking a little time to get them right. Learn the tricks to making concrete garden steps here. Don't want to do this job yourself? Let us help you find a tradesman local to you. The principle of making steps in your garden is exactly the same as anywhere else. Steps and stairs have to rise while we go up them. The height they need to go up in total is divided by the number of steps required to get from bottom to top.
The distance up is called the riseand the distance forward is called the going. Find out more about stair terminology here. To begin you need to lay out the area where your steps will go. There should be a slope, but this will not always be the case, such and when the steps are up to a patio and are against a wall.
We cover this in more detail below. The first step no pun intended! In our example the sides of the steps are marked by walls but if you do not have this luxury, you will need to mark the edge out with pegs and run a line marking the parallel edges, or build your own walls. Check that the area that you have marked out is absolutely square. We have translated the Pythagoras mathematical principle for you and You can find out more by looking at our tips and tricks page.
You do this by measuring the overall length and height going and rise of the flight and dividing by mm, which is a typical step.
In our example we had exactly 1m or mm to rise and we had to do that rise in a going of 1. As we have mentioned, the average rise although there are no rules in the garden for a garden step is mm or thereabouts, so it was pretty easy to work out that there would be 5 steps and to make the most of the going space available each step would be mm wide or, to put it properly, each step had a going of mm.
Making a sketch like the one above makes the job a lot easier when it is visual. While there are no rules in the garden as the height of the riser or the depth of the tread, it is always a good idea to keep each one the same.
Stairs and steps, with different size treads are a real nuisance and can be a trip hazard. Now you can mark out where each of the steps will be in the area you have already marked out. You will need to dig out the steps, digging back about mm behind the risers to give yourself space to work. You will need to dig out around mm below the level of the paver to add compacted hardcore or concrete, depending on the method you are going to use.
So we were able how to insert a pdf into autocad 2012 use a breaker to break out the second and third steps, and then dig down behind the first to put in a concrete base for step number two.
This continued all the way up to the top. Ensure that this footing is level and hard before your continue. Two concrete blocks are laid flat to form the shuttering or formwork for the concrete behind. The concrete is mixed as a 6-ballast Ч 1-cement fairly dry mix. It would take a week if you had to wait for each step to dry before moving on to the next. In this example the blocks and concrete are laid wider than the opening that is needed. This allows the use of the extra width as a stepped foundation for the walls up either side.
The treads were cut to size and laid from the same paving as the patio. Each tread overhangs the step below and slopes downwards towards the front what does the bible say about circumcision 6mm.
This allows the water to run off the step and drop onto the next one rather than run down the face of the render which we had spread on the face of the blockwork. See our project page on foundations and also our project page on rendering here as well as our page on laying bricks and blocks. Alternatively, behind the brick or block what is a kb and mb, scalping or hardcore can be laid and compacted.
This should rise to the point the second step will be built which will ensure that the water runs off the front of the step, much in the way described above. A 6mm difference is sufficient to give you an effective slope. The lay a bed of mortar to place the pavers onto and lay them with an overhang of about 25mm on the front and sides of the steps.
You should use a pointing mortar between slabs if required. In this method you build the next riser on top of the paver or tread of the step below. The disadvantage of this method is that you either have to wait for the mortar under the pavers to go off before you start the next step, or be very careful.
Unlike the image above, we always prefer to fill the void behind each riser. If this cavity is left open as shown in the diy. This in turn will stain your steps.
See our project page on efflorescence. Building railway sleeper steps is very popular in the garden and you can see a project page on how to do this here. The setting out and working out the rise and the going is very similar except sleepers, being a set size, do not give you quite the flexibility you have with bricks, blocks and a masonry tread of some kind.
At least with masonry you can vary the depth of the joint to add or subtract a few cm where necessary. This sounds like a contradiction in terms, how to get rid of clover without killing grass sometimes it how to build stairs with cinder blocks necessary to build steps up to a patio where there is no slope, such as where the steps meet a wall.
In this case it is important to anchor the steps into the wall by toothing it in to the adjoining wall. For more information about how to do this see our project on tying into existing brickwork. The easiest way to build steps like this is to build low walls with bricks or blocks where the risers and sides of the flight will be. You will end up with a series of boxes which you fill with scalping or ballast before adding your treads.
For up to 5 steps you can build these steps of strip footings, but over 5 steps you should create a concrete pad. The nice thing about building steps in the garden is that you have a great deal more freedom that you do in the home, however you do need to ensure that they are safe and sound. If you use either of these two methods you will achieve just that; safe patio or garden step made with pavers.
All project content written and produced by Mike Edwardsfounder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology. Apologies, what time bally total fitness close we don't seem to have a video for this project yet, but we will do our best to get one up soon.
Find a tradesman now! Skip to primary navigation Skip to main content Skip to primary sidebar Skip to footer. Twitter Facebook Pin It Buffer. Project Menu Project Menu. Work out the Rise and Going for your Garden Steps As we have mentioned, the average rise although there are no rules in the garden for a garden step is mm or thereabouts, so it was pretty easy to work out how to build stairs with cinder blocks there would be 5 steps and to make the most of the going space available each step would be mm wide or, to put it properly, each step had a going of mm.
Work out how many steps you will need Now you can mark out where each of the steps will be in the area you have already marked out. Either way, start at the bottom step and work up. The footing under the first step or riser Ч Image courtesy of diy. Laying blocks to form walls either side on extra width of step The treads were cut to size and laid from the same paving as the patio. Building the Rise on the Paver Slab Method Alternatively, behind the brick or block work, scalping or hardcore can be laid and compacted.
Laying the paver tread when making garden steps Ч Image courtesy of diy. Building Steps From Railway Sleepers Railway sleeper steps formed in grass verge Building railway sleeper steps is very popular in the garden and you can see a project page on how to do this here. Make sure that you measure the position for the steps are even all the way up the flight. Check that the flight of steps is even Ч How to get free rp legally courtesy of diy.
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Stairs and steps, with different size treads are a real nuisance and can be a trip hazard. Two concrete blocks are laid flat to form the shuttering or formwork for the concrete behind. The concrete is mixed as a 6-ballast Ц 1-cement fairly dry mix. The easiest way to build steps like this is to build low walls with bricks or blocks zi255.com
This article was co-authored by Gerber Ortiz-Vega. Gerber specializes in providing brick and stone laying services, concrete installations, and masonry repairs. Gerber has over four years of experience running GO Masonry and over ten years of general masonry work experience.
This article has been viewed , times. Whether you're building a retaining wall or just need some extra privacy, a cinder block wall is an affordable way to get the job done. Once you've got your base set up, it just takes some finesse in building the wall up and turning corners. Just a heads up, this can be an awfully tiring task so you may want to enlist a friend for some help! To build a cinder block wall, start by digging a hole for the foundation and reinforcing it by placing steel rebar into each corner.
Next, fill the hole with concrete and let it dry overnight. Then, attach the first row of cinder blocks to the concrete with mortar to build the base of your wall.
Continue stacking the blocks in rows, making sure to stagger them with each row to make the wall as sturdy as possible. Additionally, strike the joints of the blocks with a rubber mallet before laying a new row to help secure the blocks in place. To learn more, like how to build up and around corners with your cinder blocks, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Determine the width of your wall. To determine the width of your future wall, decide how many cinder blocks you want to use for the wall width, then calculate the width using the block's measurements. For example, if your cinder blocks are 8x8 in 20x20 cm and you want to use 2 blocks to make up the wall's width, your total wall width would be 16 in 40 cm.
Measure the footing area. The footing is the foundational base of the cinder block wall. It should be at least two times wider than the width of your block. Start by measuring the width of your future wall, then calculate the footing area.
Use a tape measure to find the dimensions of the footing area on the ground. Footing helps to spread the weight of a load-bearing wall across an area of soil. The taller and heavier your wall is, the wider the footing should be. Your footers should be free any potential water seeping or pooling. Make sure that your planned footing areas are all set up to drain water away from the footing. Remember to check with local building codes to make sure you are in compliance, as well.
Mark the footing area with 4 stakes. Place a stake in each corner of the footing area. This will help you contain your poured footing in the enclosed space. The length of the wall is up to you, just remember to mark times the width of your wall so you can install the footing.
Tie string along each stake to mark the perimeter of the footing area. The string will create a barrier and help you stay within the marked lines when pouring the footing.
Tie string from stake to stake around the perimeter of the area. This creates 4 straight lines -- 1 for each side of your wall. Dig out the space between the lines. Use a shovel to remove dirt from the footing area. Dig out about as much depth as the cinder blocks are long, plus 3 inches 7. If you are in the U. Call at least 2 days in advance, and follow all guidelines and directions you receive.
Place steel rebars into your trench. One should be placed in each corner and be about half the width of your trench on each side. Once the rebar benders are in place, apply pressure until your 90 degree bend is completed. You will also want rebar placed vertically in every other masonry core, stabilized with coarse fill grout. Tap the block lightly with a rubber mallet to help the grout settle.
Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow. Concrete mixes vary slightly from brand to brand, but most of them require adding water. Be sure to check the specific instructions for your concrete before doing any mixing. Follow the directions for mixing ratios and stir until the concrete mixture is fully combined.
Put on goggles, gloves, long sleeves and pants, and a mask before you mix the concrete. Pour the wet concrete mixture into your footing trench. Starting in 1 corner, tilt the wheelbarrow up by its handles and let the wet concrete drain out of it. Move slowly to the opposite end, continuing to pour. Repeat on the other side. Keep pouring until the trench is completely filled. Pour the concrete with great care. Kicking up dirt or debris could contaminate your mixture and create a non-binding or crumbling mix.
Smooth the surface of the concrete with a float. After pouring wet concrete, it probably won't be perfectly flat or smooth. Use a float to smooth out any rough or spotty areas on the surface of your concrete. Let the concrete harden overnight before proceeding. The notches it creates will help the first row of blocks better adhere to the footer than they would on flat, smooth concrete.
Part 2 of Lay out the first layer of cinder blocks. Starting at one end of the wall, lay out the cinder blocks, end to end, until you reach the first turn in the wall. If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other end. You will use spacers for straight walls and walls with turns. Trace around the edges of the bricks from end to end. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the entire chain of cinder blocks you set up. Trace around all 4 sides and mark where the spacers are, as well.
Then pick the cinder blocks up and put them aside. Spread mortar on the footing inside the marked area of the first block. The mortar should completely cover the area where the first block will sit.
Use a trowel to add mortar to the area between your traced lines. Spread the mortar to be about 1 inch 2. Mixing it yourself is usually the cheaper option. Place the first cinder block on top of the mortar. Line the cinder block up right over the prepared area, then gently lower it onto the mortar. Butter the "ears" of the second block with mortar.
The "ears" are the 2 protrusions also called flanges running from top to bottom on both ends of every cinder block. Buttering the ears simply means use your trowel to apply mortar directly on top of both flanges on 1 end of a cinder block. This connects the flanges of this block to the flanges of the 1 already in place. You only need to use enough mortar to thinly cover the surface of the ears.